Home Start Here Calculator Guides Tools & Gear Free Playbook →

1. Your car

Set these once — they’re saved in your browser.

mpg
$
$

What it is: what the miles cost you once the gas is paid for — tires, brakes, oil, repairs, and the resale value the odometer takes off your car. Your car payment, insurance and registration are left out: those cost the same whether you take this order or sit still.

A newer car costs more per mile because it has more value left to lose. An older one costs more to repair but sheds far fewer dollars.

The presets are estimates, not a published rate. For your own figure: take what your car is worth today minus what the same car a year older is worth, divide by the miles you drive in a year, then add last year’s repair and tire bills divided by those same miles. Type the total in the box.

¢/mi

2. The order

$
mi
min
mi

Apps only show one‑way distance. This defaults to the same distance back, but the drive back often isn’t the same — change it if it’s not.

Your real rate
Enter an order above
Set your car up top first — the verdict is only as good as your MPG and target.

3. What you actually keep

Same order, three different hourly rates. Each line takes out one more thing the app never mentioned.

Payout—
Miles drivenAs entered—
Per hour, before any costsWhat the app implies you’re making—
Gas for this order —
Per hour, after gasBetter, but still not what you keep—
Wear & tear —
Real take‑home per hourThe number the verdict uses—
Per mile—

Wear & tear is tires, brakes, oil, repairs and the value your car loses as the miles pile on. You don’t feel it tonight — you feel it the month the brakes go. Gas is counted separately above, so nothing is double‑counted here. The cents‑per‑mile figure is an estimate you can change — the “i” next to it explains how to work out your own.

Insurance, registration and your car payment aren’t in that number on purpose. They cost the same whether you take this order or sit in the parking lot, so they can’t help you decide.